The Bedford Springs Resort has hosted seven sitting presidents, as well as celebrities and foreign dignitaries. (Courtesy of Bedford Springs Resort)

"Take the waters" and play some golf at Bedford Springs Resort

By Tim McDonald,
Contributor

BEDFORD SPRINGS, Penn. - When you pull off the narrow, winding road into the Bedford Springs Resort, in peaceful Bedford County, it's like stepping back into an old photo, only in color.

People first started coming here about 200 years ago, drawn to the reputed healing qualities of the eight mineral springs, including seven sitting presidents. In fact, James Buchanan spent 40 summers here and used it as his "summer White House" while in office. He also took the first trans-Atlantic cable here in the lobby.

It sports that grand, classic resort look, with antiques spread throughout the properties and rocking chairs on the wide verandas.

I don't want to say there are ghosts on the grounds, but history seems to seep into the very wood. They used oxen to help build it!

The place has hosted U.S. presidents, celebrities, the very rich and dignitaries from around the world, most of whom came to "take the waters."

That's not even counting the Native Americans who discovered it.

The resort, an hour and a half from Pittsburgh and two hours from Washington D.C., got a $120 million renewal and expansion, re-opening in 2007. It sits high in the Allegheny Mountains and Cumberland Valley on 2,200 acres, with 216 guestrooms and suites.

The new owners made sure the old-time resort had all the modern amenities. That includes a state-of-the-art conference center, a 30,000 square-foot "Springs Eternal Spa" that includes a dip in the old mineral waters those presidents used to enjoy.

It also has an aquatic center with an outdoor pool and a heated, mineral springs-fed indoor pool. Nature lovers will enjoy the on-property trout fishing and 25 miles of hiking and biking trails.

You won't lack for food at Bedford Springs, either in quality or volume. The 1796 Room serves gourmet cuisine, like rack of Colorado lamb, house smoked chicken and Brown butter roasted snapper. For dessert, I found the mango raspberry baked Alaska terrific.

The Frontier Tavern is in the 1806 Stone Inn building and draws locals with its beer selection. The Crystal Room, in the main dining room, has healthy buffets.

The Che Sara Sara is the coffee and tea bar, and Turtle Shell is located at the outdoor aquatic center, serving hamburgers, hot dogs and drinks.

Golf at Bedford Springs Resort

And then, of course, there is the golf.

The Old Course at Bedford Springs was designed by Donald Ross and A.W. Tillinghast.

"It's got a good pedigree," said Bedford Springs Director of Golf Ron Leporati.

The Old Course dates back to 1895 from a design by Spencer Oldham, making it one of the oldest tracks in the country.

Tillinghast redesigned the Bedford Springs course in 1912, shortening it to nine holes, and then Ross came around in 1923 and re-worked it again, restoring it to its original 18 holes. At that time, it was hailed as one of the best in Pennsylvania.

Ron Forse, a well-known restoration architect, began renovating the course in 2005, using old aerial photos and his knowledge of old-school architecture. The course re-opened in 2007 to more than a little fanfare.

Indeed, the course is like a green, living museum, a grand old dame refreshed from a treatment at the resort's ritzy, new spa and a dip in the healing mineral waters.

It's 6,795 yards from the back tees and in great shape, with its superb, wall-to-wall bentgrass, the Mercedes of putting surfaces, and the bluegrass and fescue rough. They've let the native grasses grow wild in certain parts of the layout, which is tree-lined in spots and open in others.

The layout is routed around Red Oaks Lake, and wooden bridges take you over the Shobers Run Creek, a tributary of the Juniata River, which crosses the fairways several times.

The course is open to the public with preferred tee times for resort guests. The practice facility is good, with a dual-ended driving range and short-game practice area.

The Beford Springs golf course is designated a National Register Historic District for being "one of the best remaining examples of springs resort architecture."

September 30, 2009

Veteran golf writer Tim McDonald keeps one eye on the PGA Tour and another watching golf vacation hotspots and letting travelers in on the best place to vacation.

Any opinions expressed above are those of the writer and do not necessarily represent the views of the management.