Hitting the sweet spot in Hershey is a short drive away

HERSHEY, Pa. -- At some point, you've eaten the chocolate made there. You might have even driven up Cocoa Avenue, past the streetlights shaped like Hershey Kisses, before heading to the amusement park, probably on a grade-school class trip years ago. But did you know that the Hershey Golf Club, located in the rolling countryside of central Pennsylvania, was the site of the 1940 PGA Championship, has hosted a PGA or LPGA event annually since 1975, and once had Ben Hogan as its head professional? Probably not.

Thousands of chocoholics make the pilgrimage every year to the town Milton Hershey built, but regional golfers also make the trek to play two courses -- the West, opened in 1930, and the East, which debuted 40 years later -- that make it one of the best golf resorts in the Northeast. Located 12 miles east of the state capitol in Harrisburg, Hershey is a three-hour drive from New York City, two from Philadelphia, and 90 minutes from Baltimore. And its place in golf history is almost as rich as the candy the town is famous for.

In 1940, Henry Picard, who had just completed his sixth year as head pro at Hershey's West Course, moved to Oklahoma because of health reasons. Picard, who was the PGA Tour's leading money winner in 1939 with earnings of $10,303, recommended an up-and-coming pro named Ben Hogan for the job.

Just three years earlier, a 25-year old Hogan notched his first-ever professional victory when he teamed with Vic Ghezzi to win the 1938 Hershey Four Ball. Hogan finished second the following year in the Hershey Open and then won it in 1941. That event was not held in 1940 because the course was a bit busy hosting the 23rd PGA Championship, won by Byron Nelson, who edged out Sam Snead.

Hogan wound up serving as head pro through 1951. Today on the second floor of the clubhouse is a display featuring some memorabilia from his era, including a copy of Hogan's contract to work as the head pro from 1948-1950. His salary? $5,000 a year.

While the 1940 PGA would be the only major tournament hosted by Hershey, the LPGA Lady Keystone Open was held there from 1975-1994, and the East Course has hosted a Nationwide Tour event annually since 1997, with each year's winner going on to earn their PGA Tour card that year.

The East course, which turns 34 this year, host the events largely because it poses a greater challenge than its older counterpart, according to head pro Mike Battistelli. "On the East, you're going to have to bust some tee shots and approach shots to reach the mostly elevated greens. There are more fairway and greenside bunkers here than on the West, and from the tips you'll be playing 7,061 yards."

Joe Ogilvie, who captured the title at last year's Reese's Cup Classic, knows why winners of that event have always returned to the big show. "This course really prepares you for the PGA TOUR because you never really can feel comfortable out there. You can't let your guard down and you can't lose your patience." Ogilvie has high praise for the putting surfaces too. "As far as the greens here, we don't play on any better on either tour." This year's tournament will be held June 28th to July 4th.

The friendlier, 6,860-yard West course doesn't look quite the same as when it hosted the PGA Tournament in 1940. In the late 1950s some holes were rerouted to make way for expansion of the Chocolate Factory, which borders the west boundary of the course. And other changes occurred in 1970 when a new clubhouse was built in connection with the addition of the East Course.

"The West course is a classic parkland layout with tree-lined fairways and rolling hills," said Battistelli, a Pennsylvania native. "Accuracy is the key, especially around the greens, most of which slope from front to back and stand well guarded by bunkers. There's not many surprises here, with every hole pretty much right out in front of you."

Hershey, who played the game a bit himself when not busy making his company a multi-million dollar enterprise, allowed the ground floor of his residence, known as the High Point Mansion, to be used as the clubhouse for many years. It still stands right behind the green at the 176-yard 5th on the West Course.

To play either layout, you have to stay at the elegant Hershey Hotel or the slightly less expensive Hershey Lodge. And if the 36 holes at Hershey Golf Club are not enough, there's more to be found here in chocolate town. Parkview was designed by Maurice McCarthy in 1929 and overlooks Hersheypark.

This scenic track has a number of elevation changes, and you'll have to avoid a stream that runs throughout the property. It was originally designed to be a place for employees of the Hershey Chocolate Company and the public to play. And there's Spring Creek, an executive course opened in 1930 expressly for junior golfers.

Outside of golf the options are limitless. No visit would be complete without stopping by Chocolate World, the official visitors center, where you can buy every imaginable Hershey product, including some not sold widely. And if you want to learn more about Milton Hershey and his incredibly successful careers in both business and philanthropy, check out the Hershey Museum.

The Hershey Bears of the American Hockey League play from October to April in the gleaming, 2-year old Giant Center, and there are nine rollercoasters to survive at Hersheypark. Throw in a zoo, gardens and theatre, and you'll need a constant supply of chocolate to maintain the energy necessary to take it all in. Which just goes to show that Milton Hershey, who might not have been an avid golfer, certainly was a shrewd businessman.

Stay and Play

The Hershey Hotel: Milton Hershey was inspired by some of the palatial homes he saw during travels to Europe and then built this beautiful 234-room structure atop a hill overlooking his namesake town. Opened in 1933, it features a Spanish-influenced lobby with mosaic-tiled floors. A $7 million, 17,000-square-foot spa was opened in 2001 (try the whipped cocoa bath therapy).

A nine-hole executive course is routed through a pine forest adjacent to the hotel. Hershey Lodge and Convention Center, located in the southwest corner of town, offers 665 more affordable rooms and is more suited to families. For reservations call 1-800-HERSHEY.

Golf packages include same-day unlimited green fees at HERSHEY Golf Club on the East or West Course per night of stay, golf cart for the first 18 holes for two people, unlimited practice range balls, and admission to Hershey Gardens (seasonally) and Hershey Museum. Prices for the package this spring and summer range from $159 to$249 per person/per night (double occupancy) including deluxe accommodations at The Hotel Hershey, or from $109-$189 per person/per night (double occupancy) for accommodations at the Hershey Lodge and Convention Center.

Dining out

Both hotels offer various dining options, but dress up for dinner in the expansive Circular Dining Room at The Hotel Hershey. The room has no corners or obstructed views since Milton Hershey wanted to provide the finest seating for all guests regardless of their financial standing. And do try the chocolate butter.

Fast fact

On March 2, 1962, Wilt Chamberlain scored 100 points in a game against the New York Knicks at the still-standing Hersheypark Arena.

If You Go

Hershey Golf Club
1000 East Derry Road
Hershey, Pa.
(717) 533-2360
Green fees are $95 for the West Course ($75 after 3 p.m.) and $80 on the East ($60 after 3 p.m.). You must be a guest at either The Hotel Hershey or the Hershey Lodge and Convention Center to play the courses.

March 10, 2005

Any opinions expressed above are those of the writer and do not necessarily represent the views of the management.